RETIRED!

Matt (the bartender) and Bobby joined me at midnite at Claddaugh Pub in donwtown Indianapolis for my official celebratory retirement beer. http://www.claddaghirishpubs.com/

INDIANAPOLIS

This is Bobby. He was going to show me around Indianapolis. Bobby and I had made an agreement; I would follow him around and endure the homeless situation for a few days.

I decided later that that might be pushing my luck, so I informed him that I should be moving on and turned down his offer of a first hand account and educating me on the homeless situation in Indianapolis. He is completely qualified since he has been doing it for over 20 years. He is well known by the not only the citizens but also the police in town.

This may be a project for the future. I am intrigued, but first I must complete this journey before taking on another adventure. It is a possibility.

KOKOMO, IN

Today was surprisingly cold and windy. I guess fall has officially arrived. I packed up my gear, put the pack on my aching body, and headed out wearing long pants, long sleeve shirt, and my rain jacket. It was that cold with the wind gusting at 25 miles an hour. I was warm, but it was setting up to be a long day.

As I got back onto Hwy 31 and started south and got into a rhythm, a car pulled up next to me and a kind gentleman asked me if I would like a ride. I stated I was headed to Kokomo and he responded that he was going to visit his brother there. I accepted, placed my gear in the backseat, and climbed in.

He introduced himself as Glen and asked what I was doing. After my answer, there was silence; he had no further questions for me. I then asked about him. He was a retired Chrysler employee after 33 years of working in the factory building transmissions. He was also a lifetime resident of Kokomo and said he retired so that some of the younger generation in town could go to work. Honorable.

As we approached the northern part of town, he asked if it would be alright if he dropped me off because his brother's house was just down the street. I replied that that would be completely fine. I wanted to take my time to explore the mainstreet of Kokomo. Before we said our farewells, Glen recommended I check into the Mission in downtown. I don't know why he recommended this, but I decided since I have had thoughts about the homeless situation and the people that are in that position, I would take the time to inquire into what a Mission does for a large community. With those thoughts, I was on my way into Kokomo, IN.

Thanks Glen for the ride; there weren't ANY towns on Hwy 31 between Peru and Kokomo.

Kokomo is much larger than I had thought, population of almost 60,000, and my theory about franchises would be tested as I entered town. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Kokomo,_Indiana

There were mom and pop's shops everywhere; mostly bars, muffler shops, and grocery stores. The only franchise I saw was KFC. I really started questioning my thoughts about how small business and local proprietorships can sustain a town. Looking around at the poverty and impoverished businesses, I had second thoughts and different feelings about large corporations and what they can provide for a community. Do they provide all the jobs? Does big business pay well enough to sustain a community's economy? What part does big business play in a town and a community?

The majority of this area of town was very, very impoverished. I don't know how these people get by from day to day. I didn’t see anyone on the street or sidewalk, but the residences, for sale signs, for rent signs, and the unkempt appearances of not only residences, but also businesses was tell-tale enough. This included the exorbitant number of bars in the area. Within the first mile and a half I counted 8 of them.

The scenery didn't change much all the way into downtown. More homes for sale EVERYWHERE! I continue on until I find the Kokomo Rescue Mission. http://www.kokomorescuemission.org/

I introduce myself and explain to DiAnna, the receptionist at the front desk, that I would like to speak with someone about what the Mission provides to the community. She contacts a member of the staff, Bebe, the Director of Development who has been with this organization for over 20 years. Within moments I am on a guided tour of the Mission and am being informed, educated and provided all the answers to the questions I feel compelled to ask. She is very forthright and candid in her responses. She explains the structure of the Mission and how it provides services to both men and women and the programs are very similar. It is basically broken down into three groups; entry level, intermediate, and advanced. They provide accommodations for up to 54 residents for the males; we didn't go into the female program. It is a Christian organization which means they are not funded by the state or federal government. It is completely non-profit and they attempt to rehabilitate, educate, and provide support and assistance to all who enter into the Mission looking for help and guidance. They do not discriminate. She further stated they have about a 50% success rate.

I appreciate the tour and am grateful for the experience. I now have a better understanding of what a Christian mission can provide; it is no longer the stigmatized soup kitchen from the depression era.

Bebe offers that I could stay at the Mission for the experience, but I decline due to the possibility that someone may actually need a bed for the nite. I don't want to take up a space that someone truly needy may require. She then offers information on the hotels that are out on, guess where? Hwy 31. I thank her for her time and hit the road destined for Hwy 31.

I tour historic downtown Kokomo and identify that it isn’t as successful as Red Wing, MN or Plymouth, IN. I also recognize their attempts to revitalize downtown with boutiques and coffeehouses; all in beautifully remodeled old buildings, have resulted in a little to no success. They are ALL closed! I don't understand? As I continue on thru downtown and onto Hwy 21 which heads east to link up with Hwy 31, I see all the franchises and shopping malls I am already too familiar with on this trip; the stretch of Hwy 21 that connects to Hwy 31 from downtown has it all. I now realize that Kokomo is no different than any other town that connects to a major hwy, unfortunately. I fell Kokomo has so much more to offer, but it hasn't found its true identity.

I decide to stay at the Comfort Inn to plan the next leg of my journey which will take me to the halfway point of my Urban Trek; Indianapolis!

RECOVERY DAY

From Sisseton, SD to Tampa Bay, FL is a trip of almost 1800 miles. I have covered 800 miles which, once I reach Indianapolis, will have me completing the first half of my Trek. At this pace, I should reach FL by Thanksgiving.

I needed an additional day to allow my feet to recover. All the pavement pounding over the past 100 miles have really taken a toll. Hopefully, I will feel better in the morning. Half way there isn't all the way there.

PERRYSBURG, IN

Pictures here: http://www.facebook.com/album.php?aid=114349&id=672758511&ref=mf

I have only 13 miles to go today to get to a little town of Perrysburg which just appears by name on my GPS. I will see what develops when I get there.The day starts out fair with a temperature in the low 70's and since it is a short leg, I only fill my 3 liter Camel-bak and don't fill my reserve bottle. This would prove to be a mistake, one of several on this beautiful day.

I start out a little stiff and sore which progressively gets worse. I decide I will definitely make a stop every 45 minutes and rest, refresh, and change socks for 15 minutes to maintain my diminishing stamina. My pace has slowed significantly today and I am making about 2 miles every hour even though I feel good. My energy level is up, but my feet and knees are protesting. This is where the exhaustion begins.

The road out of Rochester splits into the new 4 lane hwy and also continues as Old Hwy 31. The old hwy is the shorter route to Perrysburg, but is difficult to manage due to the small shoulder, actually it's nonexistent. This forces me to walk mostly on the pavement which is even harder on my lower extremities. At this point, I keep telling myself it is only another 8 miles to my destination. I have learned that when I start talking to myself like this, it makes for a very long day.

I trudge along, making my scheduled stops, and this is when I realize that the only person that has offered a ride throughout this state was when I first started out of South Bend, IN. After my experiences as a perceived weirdo in Argos, I am realizing that the IN people are polite and friendly, but you have to meet them first and make a good impression. That's hard to do when they are enclosed in vehicles and passing by at over 60 miles an hour down the hwy.

I finally get close to new Hwy 31; they again merge where the new hwy will take me the last 5 miles into Perrysburg. I decide to take a break and refresh. Before I remove my pack I decide to take another drink from my Camel-bak and after a couple of sips, it runs dry. This is not good. I then decide I will have to walk another 1/ 2 mile back up Old Hwy 31 to a trailer home I had seen and ask if I can refill with water.

Thankfully, there are no dogs and I walk up the steps to the door. I won't go into too many details, but there were plenty of children's toys, empty beer bottles, and piles of trash on the deck. I don't know what the tenants will think of a "weird stranger" asking for water, but I knock on the door and wait for a response. After a few moments, a nice young lady opens the door and I immediately introduce myself, explain my predicament, and ask if she will fill my one liter water bottle. She immediately replies, "yes," takes my bottle and disappears inside. She reappears with a full bottle of water, I give my thanks, and head back down the road.

It is a LONG 5 miles down the new Hwy 31 and I finally arrive to the Perrysburg turnoff. It is another mile into Perrysburg so continue on to the "city limits." It is definitely a Burg with a population of probably not more than 30 people. It is a village that sits on two blocks in the middle of fields and pastures. I am exhausted and am having bad feelings about where I will stay for the evening with further thoughts of where am I going to eat tonite and tomorrow morning.

I continue into the town and a dog starts barking and running toward me. While the dog approaches, a woman, whom I suspect is the owner frantically starts yelling, "Abby come back here!" over and over again. The dog proves to be harmless, and allows me an opportunity to introduce myself and ask this nice lady a few questions about this small burg. She introduces herself as Debbie and as she does her husband joins us and I found out his name is Randy, a retired Air Force Vet from the Grissom AFB; located south of Perrysburg. (Debbie and Randy are pictured above) They inform me there is no place to stay in "town," but would be glad to offer me a ride another 10 miles down the road to Peru where there is lodging right on the hwy. I gladly accept and Randy takes me to the Knights Inn where I decide to spend the nite.

I check in, clean up, and head to the Lincoln Square restaurant for dinner. I am exhausted and hungry and am met by Iban, a young man from Mexico who moved to IN when he was 15 with his family. He and his father own this restaurant and also own a vehicle upholstery shop. We have a nice discussion about life and this gentleman at the age of 21 owns several businesses, is working his way thru university studying mechanical engineering, and is taking care of his family.

I eat my meal, thank Iban and wish him will with his life. He truly understands the American dream and is striving for all of it. I wish him well.

I retire for the evening and realize I will need another day to recover. I can barely move. I call the front desk and ask for another nite. Again, this hotel is reasonably priced and I can definitely use the rest. I will take another day off and then see what the next leg will bring.

The next substantial town on this route will be Kokomo. I don’t want to make the same mistakes I made with Perrysburg; running out of water and exhausting myself only to end up in a town so insubstantial that I need a ride another 10 miles to civilization. I guess this can be expected as you move thru the United States on foot.

ROCHESTER, IN

The road to Rochester was a hard one. It is only 15 miles away, but would be a difficult leg. The weather throughout the day remained cool, but progressively became more overcast which further led to precipitation. It drizzled most of the way and as I entered Rochester, it started to rain. I wasn't able to get as many pictures of downtown because of this. The downtown was very similar to most towns this size I have seen. The population here is around 6000.

I see a Chamber of Commerce so I decide to ask inside if there is any place to stay. There is a campground, but it is another 3 miles west of town. It is then explained that there are 3 hotels in town and all only 3/4 of a mile south; a Super 8, Comfort Inn, and a locally owned Rosedale Motel are all collocated. I thank them and continue on in the rain opting for a nice dry shelter compared to a wet tent another 3 miles away.

As I get further south of town, I see the urban landscape change. Rochester is where Old Hwy 31 and the new fourlane Hwy 31 merge. They merge right where the hotels are located. Interestingly, there are NO hotels in downtown however, this has been the norm in most of the towns I have travelled thru. This is definitely a trend I wish would change. So, now I am headed into that area of a town which I loathe. I head to that area off of the main hwy where all the businesses are located; all the Wal-Marts, Applebees, and multiple convenience stores. Oh well, it is all that is available.

I first go to the Comfort Inn; no vacancy. I then check the Super 8; again, no vacancy. Throughout it is explained that they are all full because of the Notre Dame game and some youth event taking place in the area. I then opt for the last place available in town, the Rosewood Motel.

I meet the proprietor and her two kids and they are more than helpful even if the motel is substandard by any stretch of the imagination. However, it is reasonably priced and is actually the same price as it would have cost to stay at the campsite. If I had thought the Sweden Inn was Spartan, I hadn't seen anything yet. Please see the photographs on my Facebook account.

I spend the nite, do a load of laundry, and am glad to get back on the road in the morning. I am feeling a little stiff, but it is only 13 miles to Perrysburg, IN.

Note: In keeping with the Halloween theme, I met a gentleman who explained the Rosedale Motel was the backdrop for a real life crime that resulted with the owner of the motel being hacked to pieces and placed in a water softener container by the manager several years ago. http://www.indy.com/articles/crime-courts/thread/court-cuts-sentence-in-motel-murder

ARGOS, IN

I pack and prepare to depart early in the morning and I visit with Dale, the proprietor of the liquor store, where I slept in the backyard, while I wash up in his restroom. After a quick breakfast of beef jerky and cashew nuts which is all that was available in this little town, I say my thanks and farewells and head back down Old Hwy 31 to Plymouth and on to La Paz, IN.

The morning starts nice and dry and a very comfortable 65 degrees. However, as the day progresses and I approach Plymouth, the weather turns overcast and humid. I am prepared for rain.

As I enter Plymouth, it looks like many of the other towns I have passed thru along this trip, but with the leaves now turning and many maple leaves lying on the ground with the crisp smell of fall in the air, I anticipate Halloween. Speaking of Halloween, many of the towns thru IN could have been used as the backdrop for John Carpenter's masterpiece "Halloween" which was set in a fictional Haddonfield, IL. http://www.seeing-stars.com/locations/halloween/index.shtml I expect to see Michael Myers around any corner.

Plymouth's downtown sits off the major hwy. Hwy 31 has been rerouted in the past several decades and now the old remnants of this hwy now pass thru a number of older towns. Plymouth appears to be doing very well, but I think this is due to the old hwy runs directly into Rochester, IN and many of the local residents use this route over the 4 lane new hwy because it is shorter and a much more direct route. This would include all the towns between South Bend to Rochester. As I pass beyond Rochester this theory will be put to the test.

I take a few pictures of Plymouth, a very nice town with a population of around 10,000, and then move on. http://www.plymouthin.com/

Note: Old Hwy 31 doesn't even appear on my GPS. My route is set just off of the new hwy.

After 16 miles and I will admit I am feeling tired, I arrive in Argos, IN. I walk down the mainstreet and it looks as if it is barely surviving. I take a few pictures and as I do a young lad, probably 10 yrs old, on a bicycle approaches and asks innocently what I am doing. I explain I am passing thru town and am walking to FL. He questions this with, "are you going to walk the whole way?" My reply is of course and emphatic, "yes" and he immediately remarks with a quip of, "you're not going to make it." Very funny kid. He moves on and I am left pondering his remark and then realize I have to find a place to stay for the evening, it is already 6:00 pm.

I spot the one and only establishment that appears to be open which is of course the local watering hole, "The Bear's Den." http://www.urbanspoon.com/r/172/984070/restaurant/Indiana/Bears-Den-Argos

I enter and meet a whole lot of nice people. First there is Karen and Lucky followed by Christi, Cory, and Andrew. This leads to an introduction to the owner, Ray. I ask any and all of them if there is a place to pitch a tent and Ray offers that I could walk further down the street and find an open garage with a bunch of guys drinking beer and this would be Don's place. Ray feels certain Don would allow me to sleep in his backyard. With that said, I start to put on my pack while thanking all of them and this is when Cory approaches me and asks where I am going. She and her boyfriend Andrew then offer me their backyard and asked if I could wait a few minutes while they finish their dart game and they would then escort me to their residence which ends up being only two blocks away.

We depart, I set up my tent as dusk approaches and then they further extend their hospitality by offering me a shower. I absolutely accept, clean up, and we all head back to the Bear's Den for the evening. Andrew and I shoot some pool, have a few beers, and then they all must depart because they work in the morning. I choose to stay for another beer and take time to visit with the bartender, Julie. As we discuss the town and the "goings-on" within its small population of just over a thousand people, a nice lady named Jackie sits down and starts to explain how my presence in the town has already spread throughout this small population because a friend of hers had mentioned to watch out for a "weird man who is in town." She further explains that all the children had also been told to be cautious of me. Interesting. The townsfolk have already made a snap judgment, yet a young couple have already offered for me to allow this "weird" stranger to sleep in their backyard, allowed me use their home to clean up and had also joined me for an evening of entertainment. I am now starting to feel a little like Michael Myers from Halloween. I guess, 'tis the season.

Anyway, after a discussion about how the town has suffered from the rerouting of the hwy and why I would choose to visit Argos, I say goodnite to all and retire to my tent for the evening. It is a pleasant nite and it is VERY quiet. This is the first I have camped away from a major highway. However, the trains still seem to run throughout all the towns I have visited this entire trip. I hear them everywhere I have stayed during this journey.

I am awakened by Cory as she is preparing to go back to The Bear's Den with her friend Tina, who I am cordially introduced, and they inquire if I would like to join them. I state that once I am packed, I will meet them there for breakfast. As I have mentioned, this establishment is the only place to get food and drink in the entire town. They depart, I pack my gear, and in a short period of time, I meet them for breakfast and coffee. Indiana has the BEST coffee. It has seemed to improve the further south I go.

After a breakfast of bacon and eggs and a couple of cups of coffee, I say my farewells to all and move on down the road to Rochester, IN.

This small town was full of fantastic people. All were more than helpful if not a little suspicious of the "weird stranger." I don't blame any of them for feeling like this. I do fit the moniker because all of these citizens cannot comprehend what would bring a man into their little town and further, why would he stay? I definitely have given them all a lot to talk about and I am certain there will be many myths created, but only a few that have met me will know the truth behind the stranger that passed through their midst this fall of 2009.

LA PAZ, IN

I departed the hotel with a commitment of staying in a minimum of hotels (dependant on the situation) for the remainder of the trip. This idea was spurned on by the Discovery Channel's "The Colony" Marathon which was aired today. If you are not aware of this program, it is an experiment with a group of people from diverse backgrounds and "former" occupations that are put into a simulated environment replicating what the world would be like after a massive worldwide catastrophe; they represent the survivors of this holocaust. They come from diverse backgrounds and are presented with numerous scenarios during each episode that challenge their physical, mental, and social abilities. Anyway, I observed them doing more with less and I now should try to aspire to this ideal to thoroughly make this journey what it is meant to be.That said, all appears to be falling into place. First, within the first 5 miles into IN, a nice lady pulls over in front of me on Hwy 31 and asks if I need a ride. She apologizes upfront that she is only going 20 miles. I thank her and tell her I am not going that far today and prefer to walk. She wishes me luck and departs.

The weather today is overcast and humid, but not too hot; mid 70's. The problem with weather in this region is if the weather is remotely close to developing into any precipitation, the wind completely dies out. Needless to say, today was a warm one.

I thought I could make it all the way into Plymouth, IN today (19 miles), but realized because of the weather, I was losing steam and would have to find an alternate place for the evening.

I went thru several towns. The first town was Lakeville where I met Duane and Emmerich, the owner of Cheri's Coffee Café, and had a nice conversation with them about my journey and the business. He second was La Paz, IN where I decided to stop and ask a few questions about the area, so I walked into Pat's Pub and met the owner, Tom (pictured) and he asked if I was headed for the Alps with all the gear I had. I explained my purpose and he immediately offered the backyard next to his pub. To Tom, I extend many thanks for getting me back on track with my journey.

Now, after setting up my gear, it is time to clean up. This is a little more difficult than it sounds because there isn't a shower available. I first ask if I can use the restroom in the establishment I have been allowed to make "home" and if they approve (which they all have) I then enter, lay down numerous papertowels from the dispenser, undress, wash thoroughly with my neckerchief (greatest piece of gear I own), dry off with my camp towel (similar to a Sham-wow), redress with fresh clothes, and then clean up the restroom. My dirty clothes go into a small trashbag, I use my hygiene gear (deodorant) to freshen up some more, and then I leave the premises ensuring I leave it cleaner than I found it and in a minimal amount of time (8-10 minutes) so as not to disturb the patronage.

So, tonite, after a meal and a couple of beers, I bed down nice and clean in another backyard and look forward to another exciting day in Indiana.

DAY OFF

My friend, Diana, wouldn’t allow me to go back into Chicago or even into Gary, IN to restart my journey. She was VERY concerned for my welfare in both areas, so I compromised and allowed her to drop me off in South Bend, IN.

I checked into the Quality Suites Hotel and started to reassess all of my gear. After getting an iPhone, I no longer needed neither my old phone and all its accessories nor my old iPod and its cable. Additionally, since the iPhone replaces both of these items, I could also "discard" all the other items that allowed me to connect them to my computer. This further lightened my load by at least another pound.

I guess this is as good a time as any to go over my inventory and compare it to what I had started with.

Present inventory:

(1) Pack; North Face

(1) Tent; Sierra Designs, one person

(1) Sleeping bag; Mountain Hardware, rated to 32 degrees

(1) Sleeping mat w/ camping chair converter; Big Agnes

(1) Camp pillow

(1) Jeans; Levi's

(1) Hiking pants

(2) Convertible pants

(3) Short sleeve "dri-fit" shirts

(3) Long sleeve "dri-fit" shirts

(2) Collared Shirts; Patagonia/Billabong

(5) Skivvies; Under Armor

(5) Socks; REI and Smart-Wool

(1) set Long Johns

(1) Fleece; North Face

(1) Jacket, wet weather; Mountain Hardware

(1) Pants, wet weather

(1pr) Boots; Asolo

(1pr) "Slippahs"; Locals

(1pr) Shoes; Sanuk

(1) Stove; MSR

(1can) Fuel; MSR

(1) Water Purifier; MSR

(1set) Camp pot/pan

(1) Lighter, butane

(1) Leatherman

(50 ft) Dura Cord

(1) Bugjuice

(1) Sunscreen

(3) Lip Balm

(1) Ukulele w/ songbook and tuner

(1 liter) Bottled water

(3 liter) Camel-bak

(1) Camp trowel

(1roll) Toilet Paper

(1 pkg) Anti-bacterial wipes

(1) First-aid Kit

(1 set) Hygiene Gear

(1) Camp Towel

(2 small) Trash Bags

(1 set) Sunglasses; Bolle

(1) Baseball Cap w/ Squaw Valley logo

(1) Backpacking Hat w/ friends and family signatures

(1) Neckerchief

(2) Handkerchiefs

(1) Watch; Timex

(3) Mosquito Coils

(1) Space Blanket

(1) Headlamp; Petzl

(1) Net Book Computer; Acer

(1) External Harddrive (500 Gb); Western Digital

(1) Flashdrive (8 Gb); SanDisk

(1) iPhone

Items I have discarded (mailed home):

(1 pr) Jeans

(1) Shirt

(1 pr) Underwear

(3 pr) Socks

(1) Book

(1) Nalgene Bottle (lost on the Missisippi)

(1) GPS; Garmin

(1) AM/FM Radio

(1) Digital Camera; Canon

(1) iPod

(1) Cell Phone; Blackberry

(1 pr) Hiking Boots (replaced)

I have stripped down to the bare essentials and all is working out well. I had initially overestimated what I might need and with the acquisition of an iPhone, I have been further streamlined. Now, the true test will be if the weather turns to a temperature below 50 degrees, but I am certain I will be fine with the gear I have.

So, with a lighter load, I look forward to continuing my adventure. See you out there!

APPLE

Alright, I thought it would be a difficult decision, but it proved no more difficult than it was for me to finally choose the iPod 5 years ago after I had worked thru 3 previous years of pain, anguish, and frustration with earlier versions of the MP3 player.

Over the past 3 months, I have been with T-Mobile, Verizon, and now AT&T. Not only that, but I have also been thru 3 different phones. The Blackberry's Pearl, Storm, and now the iPhone. There were many issues both with providers and phones. I need a more dependable phone for the rest of my trip.

Well, as I stated earlier, this should hardly have been a difficult decision. This device is everything my Blackberrys were and more, much more.

I have some concerns. One is the connectivity to the network; I will give Verizon credit in that department. My other concern is how well protected it is against the elements, but I think all phones have that issue. I will take it on the road for the true test.

CHICAGO

It was finally time to visit the "windy city" of Chicago and take in the sights. There was so much to see, I will have to return.

It was as breathtaking as I had imagined, but the part I could never have imagined was that a city as large as Chicago could be and would be so orderly, clean, and well maintained. There wasn't a single piece of trash in the streets. The buildings appeared to have been built only several years ago, and the people were NOT what I had expected at all; all were very courteous, polite, and considerate.

Now I have started taking into account the "homeless" and "needy" and noticed that they were as courteous, polite, and considerate as Chicago's more fortunate citizens. They were also clean and non-intrusive / obtrusive. I actually felt bad not giving hand-outs.

I still need to work on making and taking the time to visit with these people, but with a smile, a nod of the head, or a wave, a simple acknowledgement of their existence seems to make a slight difference in their lives. They at least return your acknowledgement with a similar gesture or comment. I do believe I was approached by every single "needy" person on the street in Chicago this day. Either I look like a nice guy, a tourist, or a sucker. I am not certain which. I prefer the nice guy reference. Maybe I will ask next time.

Please take time to look over the pictures on my Facebook account. They will say much more than my words can.
http://www.facebook.com/album.php?aid=112673&id=672758511&saved#/album.php?aid=112673&id=672758511

I am speechless, stunned, and amazed after visiting Chicago. It does appear to be "my kind of town."

I thoroughly enjoyed the Hancock building visit where, on the 96th floor, I enjoyed cheesecake, a cocktail, and a beautiful sunset.
http://www.johnhancockcenterchicago.com/

Before returning to MI, Diana and I stopped at Pizza Uno, home of the first "Chicago Style" pizza. Absolutely amazing.
http://www.unos.com/

Note: The Chicago Bears did beat the Pittsburgh Steelers on this NFL Sunday while I was in town; this makes a perfect winning record for the team's whose towns I have been visiting. This includes the Twins, Packers, Fightin' Irish, and the Bears.

*Keep in mind, the Lions did not win while I was in MI, but they actually were first to put points on the scoreboard while I watched the game and ate pizza at the Silver Beach Pizza Co. in St. Joseph, Michigan. http://silverbeachpizza.com/

NOTRE DAME

Pictures here:
http://www.facebook.com/album.php?aid=112673&id=672758511&saved#/album.php?aid=112237&id=672758511

and here:
http://www.facebook.com/album.php?aid=112673&id=672758511&saved#/album.php?aid=112241&id=672758511

The drive to Diana's house in St. Joseph, MI was full of catching up on the past 10 years that have gone by since we were in the Marine Corps together. It was good to find out she is doing well and has moved on from the Marines to Portland, OR for her undergrad, all the traveling she has done and the experiences she has had, to now living in MI and attending Notre Dame for her MBA. Congratulations on a job well done!

As we talk about her school, our lives and future, it is decided we need to go to the Notre Dame vs. Michigan State game. We did.

What an incredible game and what an incredible campus. I can't imagine what it must be like for an 18 year old kid to have Notre Dame as their first experience after high school; maybe something like going to Marine Corps bootcamp for your first experience? Hmmm.

The game was fantastic. Notre Dame wins by a score of 33 - 30. It appears that I tend to bring a lot of luck to the teams in the hometowns that I visit. The Twins won their game while I was in Minneapolis, remember?

Note: The Twins won the World Series in 1991 after I went to one of their home games after the Gulf War...interesting, huh?

DOWNTOWN ROCKFORD

Pictures here:
http://www.facebook.com/album.php?aid=112673&id=672758511&saved#/album.php?page=1&aid=111926&id=672758511

Before I departed the Sweden Motel, I called Diana, an old Marine friend of mine that I had contacted several days earlier and whom I planned to visit, and asked if she would be willing to pick me up in Rockford since she lives in the Chicago area. She confirmed that she would and would be glad to show me around Chicago but she wouldn't arrive until around 6:00pm. So, with this information, I decided I would hike the 5 miles into downtown Rockford to see what their city might reflect.

As I walked thru the eastern part of town from the highway and the Applebee's / Walmarts, the town slowly changed from gas stations to beautiful Victorian's. Most of these homes were very well maintained and continued to improve the closer I got to town.

Near the Swedish Hospital (actual name) I came upon a bus stop and as I passed, a gentleman asked if I had a light. I instantly responded with a no and an apology, but as I took several more steps, I remembered I had a lighter for my campstove in the top flap of my pack. So, I turned around, walked back to the man and offered him a light if he would be so kind as to dig into the top flap and find it. I mentioned it would be located in a gray bag. Well, he found something gray and he immediately apologized after realizing it was my wallet. I directed him to the opposite side of the pocket and he found the bag, pulled it out, and found the lighter. I helped him light his cigarette, he replaced the contents back into my pack, thanked me kindly, and I was back on my way. I did not get his name.

After this encounter, I awaited the changing of a street light and from the adjacent street corner, an elderly man came across the crosswalk in his wheelchair. He was missing both legs and was working frantically on the wheels to move himself forward and across the street before it changed back to "do not walk." I curse myself for not thinking or moving fast enough to assist him. As he passed in front of me, he must have noticed my slight movement toward him because with a huge toothless smile spread across his face, he said, "Thank you, good luck to you, and godbless." It made me pause.

After this brief encounter, I shortly ended up at the outskirts of town and started taking pictures of the breathtaking architecture. I continued down East State St until I came upon an old broke down movie theater. Three men were outside and quietly observed me taking pictures. After I took a couple of shots, one of them asked how I was doing and if I were going to use the pictures for a book. I couldn't believe he already knew my plans, so I took a few moments to visit with them.

I didn't inquire into their situation or why they were just hanging around outside an old theater; it was apparent that they lived in the grand apartment building across the street (the Faust) and they also commented that if I liked the theater, I should definitely take pictures of their building. I thanked them for their interest, we wished each other luck, they allowed me to take their picture, and I was again on my way thru town. Again, I failed to acquire any names.

Note: I may have to take some time to get to know some of these people better and ask a few more questions. They obviously live in these downtowns I am exploring and they may have some interesting insight. If nothing else, I have found most people do have a story to tell; I am not so naïve as to think my story is the only interesting one.

The rest of town transitioned from remodeled and maintained structures to well worn and neglected buildings. It wasn't based on location or businesses occupying the area. The city, I noticed, does have a project to improve the district and are in the process of creating a city walk.

I walked all the way thru town, took many pictures, admired the buildings, especially the old theaters, and then made my way back out of town.

As I made a particular turn up one of the side streets, I noticed some younger men hanging out on a fire escape and were watching me intently. No comments were made, only simple eye contact was exchanged. Just ahead were two men sitting on a stoop and I approached a little apprehensively. As I drew near, one of the men stood up and came toward me to extend his hand in greeting and said, "we meet again Mr. Backpacker." It was the gentleman only 2 hours earlier I had helped with a light at the bus stop. I greeted him warmly and we said our farewells for the second time that day. He must have caught his bus.

I probably don't need to mention neither the conditions some of these men I have encountered appear to be in nor the neighborhoods in which I was walking. By this time, you can let your imagination clarify these specifics.

The rest of the afternoon went without incident and as I headed back up State Street, I found an English Pub (of course) and stopped in for a beer. It was the Red Lion Pub and most of my friends in Hawaii will remember our version of the Red Lion on Lewers St in Waikiki. Suffice to say, this pub did not have a window looking into a swimming pool behind the bar.

I visited with the bartender, Sherry, and she spoke with me about Rockford's downtown, the improvements they have been working on for the past 4 years, and the direction it is all going....very slowly. She also mentioned how the highway seems to destroy a lot of the commerce that could be coming into town. Along with that I added how there were NOT any hotels located in downtown. She knew this, but never really gave much thought as to how that could or would affect business. She found it interesting. So, if there are any investors reading this blog, here is a prime opportunity to take some capital and put it into an old building in downtown Rockford, take a risk, and help to improve this fine city. I will be the first to check into one of your rooms. The St. James Hotel in Red Wing, MN is a perfect example of how to do it right.

After the pub, I moved on to the Carlyle Brewing Co. to sample some of their beer brewed on premises. Magnificent. Not only do they brew fine beer, it is all they serve (besides wine) within their establishment. How refreshing is that!

While I am enjoying my beverages, I receive several text messages and a phone call from Diana and she says she will arrive in Rockford in about an hour. I have more time to enjoy my beer, visit with the staff, and compliment them on their establishment. I did not get an opportunity to meet with the brewmeister, maybe on another visit.

Diana arrives in town on time, picks me up and we head out of Rockford, destined for her residence in St Joseph, MI.

Within several days, I have traveled from WI into IL proceeding by car thru IN and into MI. What an adventure!

ILLINOIS

Pictures here: http://www.facebook.com/album.php?aid=111926&id=672758511&saved#/album.php?aid=111926&id=672758511

It was time to leave WI behind and progress into IL. I was anxious to see what the Land of Lincoln might have to offer.

It wasn't long before I was approached by a vehicle asking if I needed a ride. This was followed shortly by another vehicle inquiring into whether I needed assistance, refreshment, or directions. My fortune does really have appeared to have changed already and this was only 3 miles into the state.

I turned down all offers because the weather was a beautiful 70 degrees with sunshine and I was feeling really good about this part of the trip. My positive attitude would become essential later in the day.

I continue down IL Hwy 251, which was more like an interstate hwy, and follow it for about 10 miles before it turned east into the Rockford suburbs. Actually, the whole leg of the trek felt like I never left the suburbs; a lot of traffic, stoplights on the hwy, and plenty of gas stations to provide assistance. It was difficult simply to find a spot of shade to rest and change my socks.

My journey continues and along the route I see several campsites available, to include a state park, Rock Cut. I am committed to getting to downtown, so I pass them all by.

When I finally reach the northern section of town, I decide to stop into an Applebee's and see what information can be provided. The waitress is polite, but can't offer any information on camping or hotels near downtown. Her statement was, "I live here, so I don't know these things." Interesting. I then resort to my Blackberry and Google. No results. All the campsites I located and contacted closed at 5:00 pm. It is already 7:00 pm, so I look again for a place to stay.

I have resorted to a stay in a cheap hotel in downtown, but there aren't any. Now, maintaining my positive attitude, I continue my search and finally find the Sweden House Motel advertised on the Rockford website which did prove to be very useful. http://www.gorockford.com/default.asp I make the phonecall, they have availability, and they are VERY reasonably priced. I pick up my gear and head back down the road. It's only another 4 miles!

I arrive at the Sweden House Lodge Motel, check-in, and proceed to my room. http://www.swedenhouselodge.com/ Please let the photographs speak for themselves. *Miriam, PLEASE tell me that these are not the European accommodations I can expect when I visit Sweden.

I am surprised about the limitations of lodging available in downtown districts. All the hotels appear to be located on the interstates. Have we become such a fast paced culture that we can't take the time to enjoy "town?" Do we really need all the Wal-marts, Applebee's, and other franchise chains to make our lives easier? Where are we going and why are we trying to get there so fast? I think about this a lot on this trek.

I am still maintaining my positive attitude and all I can do is laugh at myself today and feel good about the direction this trip is going. It's a whole new state with all new experiences ahead. I am looking forward to Chicago!

BELOIT DAILY NEWS

Read the article here:

http://www.beloitdailynews.com/articles/2009/09/17/news/top_news/news1704.txt

Thank you Beloit for your interest and hospitality. Now, does this get me on Oprah when I get to Chicago?

INTO ILLINOIS

I stopped into Deb's Squeeze Inn in Edgerton for lunch and was still feeling tired from the previous few days' effort. I decided to order a cheeseburger to replenish some lost nutrients before I take on the next leg into Janesville which was only 14 miles away.

After eating and hydrating, I head down the road and onto county roads to get me to Janesville. I am a little cautious due to the non-existent shoulder. The scenery looks very familiar and not much different than it looked thru most of SD. I am imagining this is what most of IL will also look.

After walking toward Janesville for awhile and my body already starting to feel the days effort, I am fortunately picked up by a kind gentleman named Jeff. He asks my purpose, I explain, and he thanks me for my service in the military. Our conversation then progresses to his interest in football and making bets on the games to what is important in life; goals, interests, and staying happy. I enjoyed our brief conversation and after only a few minutes, we are in Janesville.

Janesville is much larger than I expected (60,000 pop) and with my experiences in other large towns, I am not looking forward to the result; spending more money. I ask Jeff to drop me off in the downtown district and he comments that that will take me way off the direct route to Beloit and Rockford, IL, so he makes a decision to simply take me into Beloit which was only 8 more miles from where we were. I reluctantly agree and was thankful. My feet were not doing so well today.

We pass thru Beloit and Jeff takes me to the south of town and into IL. I hadn't expected that, but he drops me off at the Ramada Inn instead of downtown and explains that downtown is just adjacent to this hotel. I thank him for his assistance and he departs after we wish each other much luck in our personal endeavors.

I check in and am amazed that the cost of the hotel is half of what I have spent all the way thru WI. Is this the beginning of my fortune changing already since I have now left WI and have entered IL? It looks promising. I drop off my gear, clean up, and decide to go for a walk thru town.

I work my way back into WI and downtown which was about a mile walk and see all the old buildings. They don't look as old or as well maintained as some of the other communities I have visited and again I think my theory holds true. This downtown is NOT near any highway. Now, as I proceed, I see an Irish Pub across the street and decide it is time to get something to drink, I am parched.

I enter Suds O'Hanahan's Irish Pub, I meet the owner, Tom. He comments about how I am adapting to the device I am using to update my Facebook which leads into what my adventure is all about. He then asks if I was recently in Madison because a story was on TV about a guy who had hitchhiked across the US recently and returned. I commented that I had that guy's story beat if he hitchhiked; I am backpacking. He makes a phone call and before I know it, I am on the phone with Hillary from the Beloit Daily News who wants to run a story on me and my trek. While I am conducting this interview, Clint shows up to take my picture. Wow! After traveling thru 3 states, I am now a celebrity. My fortune definitely appears to be changing.

After all this, I hang out for awhile, order a few black and tans visiting with the bartenders, Pete, Jen, and Courtney and converse with them and a few other customers and after a pleasant evening, I get a ride back to my hotel.

Thanks to all of you in Beloit for entertaining me and allowing me to enjoy my last experience in WI. It is now time for me to move on to the next state.

STOUGHTON, WI

Pictures here:
http://www.facebook.com/album.php?aid=111166&id=672758511&saved#

I headed south into downtown Stoughton and I was amazed. The town is as beautiful as Red Wing; with all the well maintained buildings from the late 1800s to early 1900s, but is comprised mostly of boutiques and art galleries. This is interesting for a small town which is so removed from a large city. Stoughton reminds me of Milan, MN in that respect.

As I walk all the way to the end of town, I find the Chamber of Commerce and feel compelled to walk in and let them know how I didn't take the time to visit their great little town because I was stuck out on the highway and there was no indication, marketing, or information provided to let me know that this amazing main street was only 3 miles away. It is almost the same experience I had in Red Wing, except local people in Red Wing openly told me all about their historic downtown district.

The folks at the Chamber were receptive to my input and we visited about my trip and their town and after a quick snack I was back on the road feeling dismayed at not taking or having enough time to visit and thoroughly enjoy their historic donwtown. I will have to attempt to revisit Stoughton sometime. Thank you, Erica, for your help in explaining the history of your town.

Today was only supposed to be 14 miles, but it felt like 140. About 8 miles from my destination, Edgerton, my body started to break down. I stopped every 45 minutes to change socks and rest. It was extremely humid and hot. The temps reached 85 degrees with NO wind or even a slight breeze and as I got closer to town, the elevation must have changed because it just became too oppressive (817 ft elev).

At dusk when I got within 2 miles of town, a man named Randy pulled over in his Jeep and mentioned he saw me walking earlier near Stoughton and inquired as to what I was doing. We spoke for several minutes while the mosquitoes had their way with me and as I said my farewells and began to trudge (literally) toward my destination, he offered a ride. I couldn't believe it; my first ride in WI from a WI'ite!

As he drove he asked about my trip and where I was going for the day. I talked with him about my change in plans thru southern WI; having to stay in hotels due to no parks readily accessible and/or near town. The only hotel he knew of was still another 4 miles out of Edgerton and near the Interstate! I was very grateful that he picked me up. I don't think I could have walked another 6 miles from where he had stopped to pick me up. Thank you Randy!

Speaking of my change in plans; normally I enter a town, ask a few questions, explain my situation, and a solution presents itself. This is not the case thru WI, so I now take the time to plan ahead. This is unusual for me and was not an initial plan for this journey. I preferred spontaneity and happenstance to planning and coordination, but I had suffered in the Marines and now I prefer a few creature comforts like a shower and food. This involves a little research on the internet followed by phonecalls to the local chamber of commerce, so we will see how this works out for Janesville, WI.

NFL Opening Day

I joined the United States Marine Corps 22 years ago today and since I was feeling really sore from the day before, I decided to celebrate by spending one more day in Stoughton, WI and took in the events of opening day of the National Football League.

A good time was had by all.

OREGON AND STOUGHTON, WI

I left Madison bound for Oregon, WI as I had previously planned and was feeling pretty good about my route. I wouldn't be on major highways any longer; I would be traveling on county roads. As I slowly made my way out of Madison along their lakefront bike trail, I gave a look back on the WI state capitol. It was a nice city and they maintained their downtown district impeccably with plenty of pubs and restaurants, but I never discovered what other entertainment their beautiful city might have provided. I did notice, however, a large number of people on the trail enjoying a beautiful day and maintaining their physical fitness. I don't know if it was because it was a weekend or due to the Iron Man Triathlon being in town. Whatever the reason, Madison does have a lot of beautiful people.

3 miles down the road, I ran into a lot of people wearing red shirts emblazoned with "Wisconsin" somewhere on them. I was getting hungry since I hadn't eaten breakfast before I left town and there were no cafes on my route through Madison. So, I stopped into the first restaurant I saw, The Coliseum Restaurant. I entered and found out why the streets were full of people wearing red; The University of Wisconsin was playing Fresno State (WAC rivalry) in Madison. It was noon and I ordered a reuben sandwich and watched the game up until halftime. Then it was time to move on. WI won the game in double overtime (13-10).

The road looked familiar, but staying on county roads did feel a lot safer and the shoulders of the road were very walkable. With today's destination only another 12 miles away I was feeling really good. This was all about to change.

As I continue my walk into Oregon, I was very surprised that no one had stopped along this route to ask if I needed a ride, if I were alright, or what I was doing. This had happened on numerous occasions thru SD and MN.

Upon arrival, I notice a nice downtown and a small café. I stop in for dinner at around 5:00 pm. There is group of friends sitting nearby, so I ask if they know of any place I can set up my camp. They stated they weren't necessarily from there. Michelle was from a small town outside of Oregon and Scott and Kirsten had just moved to La Crosse from upstate NY. They did their best, offered maps, and actually called friends to see what they could provide, but all to no avail. I thanked them, they departed, I finished my meal and decided it was time to try another tactic.

I went to the local watering hole just down the street, entered, received a LOT of terrible looks from the bartender and everyone else (all dressed in red) and didn't receive any better information. Now I have had to resort to the final option; I usually use the cafes, restaurants, and pubs to get information and then have a result, but not this time. I receive information from the bartender about where the police station is. I take this info and head that direction.

As I approach City Hall, I see the city fire dept and about 5 men are standing outside discussing "the weather." I politely interrupt, introduce myself, and ask them for info. They are very hesitant and are looking at me as if I am a serial killer. Only one offers information, but as the conversation progresses, they find out I am a retired Marine and they all then relax. Well, their advice isn't any better. They recommend heading into Stoughton which is "only" 9 miles away. I thank them and head back down the road, tired, but having eaten, I am in pretty good shape if not happy considering the route to Stoughton was supposed to be completed tomorrow.

Again, no one pauses to assist (I really didn't expect it, but it has happened over the trip) and I increase my speed because dusk is drawing near. I departed Madison at 11:00 am, paused at noon for lunch for an hour, then walked another 3 hours to arrive in Oregon at 5:00 pm (14 miles.) I started out for Stoughton at 6:00 pm and arrived at 8:00 pm after an additional 9 miles. My normal rate of speed is a steady 3 miles an hour with stops every hour to rest and change socks. During this last leg, I had increased my speed to 4 miles an hour and made only one stop to rest. Needless to say, I arrived in Stoughton late and exhausted. It was my first 20 plus mile day and it truly felt like the hikes I used to do as a US Marine. I don't want to have to repeat a leg similar to this again.

I checked into the Comfort Inn and went straight to the hot tub. I feel better now and all is well. Tomorrow is another day of excitement the type of which only WI can deliver.

MADISON, WI

Pictures are here:
http://www.facebook.com/album.php?aid=109899&id=672758511

I received a ride from a good man named Daniel. He was from Minneapolis and was on his way to visit his son in Madison. He offered me a ride all the way into Madison (appx 120 miles); I had already walked 6 miles just to get out of La Crosse and then another 3 down the hwy when he picked me up. I initially asked to be dropped off at Coon Valley which was still 10 miles away. He offered me a bottle of milk tea, which I accepted, and then Coon Valley came and went due to our conversation. We talked about life, luck, politics, socialism, society, and our youth (he hitchhiked across the US on several occasions). It was an enlightening conversation.

The next drop off point I requested was any town near "The House on the Rock."

http://www.thehouseontherock.com/
This would prove more difficult than I had expected. The house itself is 9 miles out of the way of anything. This includes food and lodging. So, he then recommended I simply go into Madison and he would drop me off in downtown. I would then figure it out from there.

Once in town, I thanked Daniel for his kindness and the tea and I was off to discover Madison. I was instantly greeted by the Capitol building and took time to look on my GPS to see where I was. Madison is laid out similar to the US Capitol. I perpendicular square that works it's way outward on spokes which are the streets. It was very easy to get disoriented. Add to this the confusing intersections and numerous sidestreets. I found my way to The Madison Hostel and dropped my gear. http://www.madisonhostel.org/ I then cleaned up, took another sight seeing tour and then it was time for dinner. I had seen a local brew pub, The Great Dane, on my walk and gave it a try. http://www.greatdanepub.com/ They had alright fish and chips, but excellent India Pale Ale. I had my fill and it was time to call it a nite.

Prior to my leaving, I took note of the people around me, watched them and their antics, and had to confirm my suspicions with my bartenders, Johnny and Katie, and also a nice local guy, Mike. They stated the dynamic of Madison was based on food and drink and has a changing demographic due to the short lived tenancy of professionals in the area, could be termed transitory occupation. Anyway, this all appears to create an aloofness and pretense of a majority of the people in town.

I decide I don't care much for Madison; I don't care much for most of the large towns/cities I have visited. They all end of costing me a lot of money. I much prefer the small towns and have made a point to plan my trip and stop every 10-12 miles at the towns in between. Up to this point, I have been following highways, but WI isn't laid out quite like that. I hope it is a good decision and makes for a pleasant walk. I am tired of all the traffic on the main roads.

Here is my planned route:
Madison
Oregon
Stoughton
Edgerton
Janesville
Beloit
Rockford, IL

This route will take me 6 days and still leaves Chicago 85 miles away.

Madison, thanks for the experience.

WISCONSIN

LA CROSSE SIGHTS

Photos here:
http://www.facebook.com/album.php?aid=109481&id=672758511&saved#/album.php?aid=109481&id=672758511

I have finally made it across MN and now am into the 3rd state of my journey, appx 400 miles later. To celebrate, I took to the streets of historic downtown La Crosse and, as usual, was pleasantly surprised by the sights, sounds, and the hospitality of the locals.

First stop was to The Wine Guyz shop. http://www.wineguyz.com/ They served hors d'oeuvres, but I declined and decided to enjoy a glass of red wine prior to my evening meal which I had no idea where I was going to get. The wine is served and I have an opportunity to meet the owner, Dan. We talk about my trip, his shop, and where to eat in the town of La Crosse. As we discuss this, several nice ladies across from me overhear our conversation and offer me a glass of their wine. I initially decline, but they stated they were driving and didn't have enough to take home. I then accepted; anything to help someone out. After a brief conversation with all, I decide to eat at Piggy's. Don't let the name fool you.

I enter Piggy's restaurant and am completely shocked and surprised by the décor and ambience which was very luxuriant. http://www.piggys.com/ I head up the staircase for dinner and am met by Colin. He seats me next to a window overlooking the street and I work my way thru the menu. The filet mignon was recommended and I was not disappointed. It was honestly the BEST steak I have ever eaten. Until this point, Assagio's in Kailua, HI had served me the best; that was a 10 year standing record which now starts over with Piggy's version of filet mignon. Thanks to Colin for the recommendation and the information for a place to get a beer. He recommends Bodega Pub and Grill and to look for Alicia, their bartender.

I head further into downtown and find Bodega's on 4th St. Keep in mind this is one of the oldest and best maintained downtowns I have seen so far on this trip. It beats Red Wing only because it is almost 3 times the size. I head inside, belly up to the bar and meet Alicia. She greets me with the menu of over 400 beers! I enjoy a few and then proceed to meet many friends and enjoy their conversations about travel, school, education, books, and movies. Jeff and PJ were very interesting and I enjoyed their input.

I depart and head back to my hotel, but before I get home, I have one more task at hand. Several men are screaming at each other in the street and their "girlfriends" are in a panic. I thought it was a normal fight until they started saying they were going to kill each other, literally. I walked past, they tried to get me engaged, I proceeded on and walked to the closest street corner to get my bearings while calling 911. The young lady on the phone was patient and took all my information. Within seconds 3 police cars were instantly patrolling the area. She allowed me to get off the phone and I went to the hotel for the nite. Enough excitement for this part of my trip.

Thanks to all the fine people I have met in La Crosse. I thoroughly enjoyed my stay.

LA CROSSE, WI

First of all, Happy Birthday to Ricky J!

I spent the nite in Winona, MN, a typical highway and college town. I didn't care for it and was anxious to get back on the road. It took almost an hour to get out of town and back onto Hwy 61. Once there, I headed south toward La Crosse, WI. I hadn't planned to get there until tomorrow and planned to stay in one of the small towns in between.

As I got about 6 miles out of town and was starting to look for one of the small towns I mentioned, a car pulled over and offered me a ride all the way into La Crosse. The gentleman who was so kind was Larry. He is a railway worker out of La Crosse and was headed home for the day. Something I hadn't realized before he picked me up as he explained it; there are no towns directly on the highway from Winona into La Crosse. This meant I would have had to stay on the side of the road somewhere in between. I am very thankful to Larry for stopping.

We spoke about railroad employment, life goals, adventure, and WI. He took good care of me and took me directly into downtown. He also explained there really wasn't a great place close to town, facilities, or food that would accommodate my trip, so I opted to go to downtown and figure it all out, as usual. He dropped me off at Riverside Park which was an excellent introduction to La Crosse, considering I have never been to WI in my life. Uncle John should be proud.

After he departed, I headed down Main Street and found nothing. I went thru town and then made my way back toward the river and ran into "Glory Days" a Green Bay Packers Pub. I got a bad first impression from the bartender. I planned to ask him about a place to stay, but he was hesitant to even serve me a beer. This all appears to be a common experience so far on this trip. Every time I cross a stateline, the first person I meet is apprehensive. I hope it gets better.

I left the pub and headed further toward the river and find a Marriot Courtyard Hotel. I checked in and looked forward to an entertaining evening that will hopefully change my opinion of La Crosse.

MORE FRIENDS

"May the road rise to meet you,

May the wind be always at your back,

May the sun shine warm upon your face,

May the rains fall soft upon your fields, And, until we meet again,

May God hold you in the hollow of His hand."

The Labor Day holiday wasn't over and I spent the evening at Slippery's Pub with Zac and Ashley. They had to continue on their vacation and after a dinner of walleye and skillet potatoes, it was time for my new friends to depart. Again, I appreciate our friendship and I thanked them for all they had done for me. Mahalo Nui Loa!

Shortly after their departure, a young couple approach me and offer to buy me a shot. I accept and they explain they overheard my conversation about my adventure and felt compelled to meet me. I was so glad they did!

I join Jon, Nat, and Sarah for the evening. Oh, they also have a dog and her name is Riley. We sit and visit thru the evening and they offer me a boat ride to their campsite on the river. Again, I can't say no. Jon walked with me over to Wally's RV park where I had already set up and as I load my backpack, Jon simply picks up my tent with everything inside and states that it will all fit in the boat "as is."

We meet the girls outside the pub and head to the dock. Jon has already placed the tent in the center of the boat. We board and are off into the dark and up the river to their site. Once we arrive, we establish my site, improve on theirs and start a fire for the nite. I then break out my ukulele, engage in fantastic conversation, and thoroughly enjoy s'mores!

Bed time came late and we ALL refuse to look at the time. We crawl into our tents for the nite. As morning comes, we awake and they reemphasiz their offer to get me further down the river. I find it difficult to refuse all of the good friends I have met and their kind offers, so again I accept.

They get me as far as Winona, MN and then we say our farewells. Thanks to Jon, Nat, and Sarah (say hello to Riley for me.) I had a great time with you!